Neapolitan fried pizza: history, tradition and where to enjoy it

A symbol of Neapolitan resilience and creativity

When one thinks of Neapolitan cuisine, one of the first things that comes to mind is undoubtedly the famous Margherita pizza (a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2017). However, there is another speciality that encapsulates the most authentic and popular essence of Naples: fried pizza. More than just a dish, it is a true symbol of resilience and creativity that tells the story of the Neapolitan people and their ancient spirit of adaptation.

The origins: between nobility and necessity

Contrary to what one might think, fried pizza has ancient and even noble origins. As early as 1837, in the treatise “Cucina teorico-pratica” (Theoretical and Practical Cooking) by Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino, there are references to one of its ancestors: “zeppolelle de baccalà”, fried in boiling oil, which can be considered the precursors of modern fried pizza.

Despite what has just been described, the version we know today has its roots in a much more dramatic period in the history of Naples, namely the post-war period. It is precisely in this context of extreme hardship that, as often happens, typical Neapolitan creativity takes shape. A perfect example of how circumstances can give rise to creative solutions.

The post-war period: the birth of the “Pizza del popolo” (Pizza of the People)

At the end of the Second World War, Naples was a city on its knees.

The traditional wood-fired ovens had been destroyed during the bombings, mozzarella and tomatoes had become luxury items, and traditional pizza now seemed an unattainable dream for many families.

It was during this period of scarcity that the women of the working-class neighbourhoods, with their typical Neapolitan ingenuity, reinvented pizza. By taking traditional pizza dough and dipping it in boiling oil instead of baking it in the oven, they managed to create a dish that was not only tasty but also plentiful and filling. And so the magic of fried pizza was born.

The female tradition

One of the most fascinating features of fried pizza is its close connection with women. It was women who took care of every stage of its preparation: from filling to frying, from selling to organising credit. The improvised banquets and fry shops, with their steaming pans, were an integral part of the Neapolitan urban landscape, giving rise to a veritable network of female micro-entrepreneurship.

This tradition continues today: many of the best fried pizzas in Naples are prepared by women, bearers of culinary wisdom handed down from generation to generation.

Traditional ingredients

In the early days of fried pizza, there were no specific recipes. The ingredients varied depending on what was available at the time, but the most common ones included ricotta cheese, pork cracklings, Neapolitan salami and provola cheese.

The dough was prepared by pizza makers, often during holidays, while women were responsible for frying and selling the pizza outside the “bassi”, the typical dwellings of Naples’ historic centre. In this way, fried pizza became not only a dish to be enjoyed, but also a small act of resistance and informal economy.

The best places to enjoy authentic fried pizza

Now that we have traced the history of this extraordinary speciality, let’s see where you can enjoy the best fried pizza in Naples:

Pizzeria de’ Figliole

Via Giudecca Vecchia, 39 (Quartiere Forcella)

Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo

Piazza Trieste e Trento, 53 / Via dei Tribunali, 35

Pizzeria Concettina ai 3 Santi

Via Arena della Sanità, 7 bis

L’Antica Friggitoria La Masardona (dal 1945)

Piazza Vittoria, Centro

Pizzeria Di Matteo

Centro Storico – Via dei Tribunali

Napoli Sotterranea and the historic centre

Naples is not only its lively surface, but also a hidden world beneath its feet. Napoli Sotterranea is a labyrinth of tunnels and passages dating back to Greco-Roman times, which played a crucial role during the Second World War. Today, some of these places are accessible on guided tours, offering a unique insight into the city.

In the heart of the historic centre, areas such as Spaccanapoli are the meeting point between history and culinary tradition. Historic pizzerias, such as “Di Matteo”, located near these underground passages, represent the perfect combination of Neapolitan gastronomic culture and the historical roots of the city of Naples, where fried pizza – a symbol of resilience – can be enjoyed in a setting that tells centuries of history, among the alleys and underground depths of the city.