Naples and nougat for the dead: the sweet irony of All Souls’ Day
When we talk about Naples, we talk about tradition, taste and that uniquely Neapolitan ability to transform even the most solemn moments into occasions for celebration. This is also true for All Souls’ Day, which in the city is coloured with lights, scents and, above all, chocolate. Because in Naples, the dead are remembered with sweetness.
From pumpkins to souls: an ancient tradition
Even before Halloween arrived, pumpkins already had a profound symbolic role in Naples and the surrounding area. In European popular culture, they were considered containers for souls, and in Campania this belief came to life in the evocative Festa delle Lucerne (Festival of Lanterns) in Somma Vesuviana: narrow streets lit by hundreds of small carved and lit pumpkins, symbolising the souls of the dead returning to visit the living.
In Naples, however, the tradition took a more cheerful and colourful turn. Here, the memory of the dead is intertwined with the energy of the city, which fills the streets with stalls, sweets, toys and smiles during those days.
Nougat for All Souls’ Day
Strolling through the historic centre in the days leading up to 2 November is a unique experience. The streets come alive with stalls selling traditional sweets and, above all, the undisputed star of the show: nougat for the dead.
Unlike classic nougat, which is hard and crunchy, this version is soft and creamy, made with chocolate and delicious ingredients such as hazelnuts, pistachios, coffee or liqueur. Its shape? Often that of a small coffin, a detail that speaks volumes about Neapolitan irony: that’s why it’s called murticiello, meaning “little dead person”.
A sweet, witty and typically Neapolitan way to exorcise the fear of death… with chocolate.
Where to taste the best torrone dei morti in the heart of Naples
If you are in the city at this time of year, don’t miss a stroll through Spaccanapoli, Via San Gregorio Armeno and Piazza del Gesù. In addition to the stalls, there are many historic bars and pastry shops where you can taste artisanal and refined versions of torrone dei morti.
Here are some unmissable stops
Scaturchio – Located in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, this place is a real institution. It offers soft dark chocolate nougat and variations with pistachio or Sicilian cassata.
Caffè Gambrinus – A stone’s throw from Piazza del Plebiscito, this place is steeped in history. Here you can accompany your torrone dei morti with a perfect Neapolitan espresso.
Pintauro – Famous for its sfogliatella, but during the feast of the dead it also prepares authentic-tasting artisan chocolate and hazelnut nougat.
Pasticceria Carraturo – Near Porta Capuana, this is a must for those who love traditional sweets. Try the coffee and rum nougat dei morti.
Leopoldo Infante – Between Via Toledo and the historic centre, it offers modern and creative versions of murticiello, also in mini portions to take away.
A short walk from these central areas of the historic centre is also Napoli Sotterranea, which can be a nice complementary stop for those who want to combine sweet treats with a cultural visit to the city’s underground.
A sweet that tells the story of Naples
Torrone dei morti is much more than a sweet: it is a story of affection, irony and memory. It tells the story of a city that does not forget, but knows how to smile even in the face of the most serious things.
In Naples, remembering the dead is not a moment of sadness, but an opportunity to celebrate life – with a bite of chocolate and a smile.