Night-time itinerary in the historic centre of Naples: through alleys, legends and mysteries under the stars

During the day, the historic centre of Naples is teeming with voices, scents and colours. But it is at night, when the alleys empty and the lights flicker on the cobblestones, that the city reveals its most secret side.

Beneath the streets and buildings lies another world: Underground Naples, a city within a city made up of tunnels, ancient cisterns and Greco-Roman ruins. It is here that many of the legends and mysteries that are still told today in the alleys of Spaccanapoli originate.

This night-time walking tour takes visitors through squares, narrow streets and underground passages where history and myth intertwine, to discover the hidden souls of the heart of Naples.

1. Piazza San Domenico Maggiore – The heart of the old town centre

Legend has it that the spirit of Thomas Aquinas roams the walls of the convent of San Domenico. He loved to study late into the night in the cell that can now be visited in the complex. Some swear they have smelt incense and heard the rustling of pages even when the doors are closed.

Photography tips: arrive shortly after sunset, when the golden light of the lanterns reflects off the Baroque spire. Try taking a shot in night mode to capture the contrast between the dark stone and the deep blue sky.

Practical tip: the square is quiet but always lively thanks to its bars and historic venues. It is an excellent starting point for a stroll in harmony with the city.

2. Via dei Tribunali – Between the Munaciello and the spirits of the alleys

Legend to tell: Via dei Tribunali is the kingdom of the Munaciello, the mischievous little monk of Neapolitan tradition. He lives in the underground passages and trapdoors that connect the city above ground to Underground Naples. He is said to appear in black clothes and a hood, especially in old working-class houses where water tunnels and secret passages once ran.

Photography tip: photograph the narrow balconies and clotheslines illuminated by street lamps, capturing the contrast between the everyday and the mysterious.

Practical advice: the street is long and lively until late in the evening. Wear comfortable shoes and proceed at a slow pace: this is how Naples is best enjoyed.

3. Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore and Underground Naples

Legend has it that beneath the basilica lies the archaeological heart of Underground Naples, where the remains of the ancient Greek-Roman market are preserved.

Guides say that, among the stones and reconstructed shops, you can hear distant footsteps and voices, as if the merchants and soldiers of antiquity had never left that place.

Photography tip: if you take an evening tour, bring a lightweight tripod: the dim light and amber tones of the candles make for extraordinary shots.

Practical tip: don’t miss a visit to Underground Naples, which also offers tours for small groups. Bring a light jacket: the temperature underground remains cool all year round.

4. Piazza del Gesù Nuovo – Esoteric symbols and mysteries in stone

Legend to tell: the façade of the Gesù Nuovo is covered with stone pyramids bearing mysterious symbols. According to legend, these inlays are not simple decorations but a musical code engraved by Renaissance architects to harmonise the energies of the city.

And who knows, perhaps these symbols communicate with the underground world that flows beneath us.

Photography tip: photograph the church from the front, including the spire of the Immaculate Conception in the centre of the square.

Halloween in Naples: when ghosts really come out

October is the perfect month to experience the historic centre in a mysterious way. Naples celebrates Halloween in its own way, mixing the Anglo-Saxon festival with the Neapolitan cult of the dead.

Many associations organise night-time tours and theatrical performances in the tunnels and alleys. Actors in costume tell stories of ghosts, apparitions and popular miracles.

The streets of Spaccanapoli are lit up with lanterns and music, where tradition meets memory.

It is an experience that only Naples can offer: a night when the boundary between the living and the spirits becomes blurred and the city celebrates life through its shadows.

– Local safety tip: bring a small torch or use the one on your phone, especially if you are exploring alleys or underground passages.

– Comfortable shoes: the cobblestones in the city centre are charming but uneven.

– Ideal time: between 8.30 p.m. and 11 p.m., when the city is alive but quieter.

In short, walking through the historic centre of Naples, above and below ground, is like entering a never-ending story.

Amidst legends, ghosts and ancient tunnels, every step reveals a fragment of the city’s deep soul: lively, mysterious and infinitely fascinating.